Matts side projects

[ST240]

With a major project like that it's always best to get things running with std hardware first if you can. It simply minimises the variables - so if it doesn't run right you've got some hope of working out where the problem lies.

Having said that, things will already be thrown out a bit with the extra capacity, but you should be able to get it running sweet pretty easily. I'd say if it starts up OK and idles smoothly then you've pretty much proven your point, then go the bigger AFM and injectors. You could play around and get it driving nicely with std AFM/inj too but I wouldn't waste too much time on it - better off spending that time tuning with the final setup.

Should be a pretty sweet setup I reckon.

PL

Thanks for the advice! Yeah that was basically my question i guess is how do you account for the 50% added displacment haha.

[PL]

Well, the real answer is I don't know. But I'd try it all std to start with and you may be surprised how well it runs.

Theoretically the bigger engine would flow more air all the time, so your AFM voltage would be higher everywhere. You'll need more fuel than a 2l engine, but with the larger airflow figure the ECU will be adding more fuel anyway. So I'm back to it probably running OK.

Anyway, just start the bugger and see how it runs. As long as you don't have any air leaks it should be OK. Then just give the K constant a nudge if it's too rich/lean.

I'll be very interested to see how she goes. Should be awesome! What turbo are you running?

PL

[PL]

One other thing - before you start it up, make sure your TPS Closed flag is coming on, else getting any sort of decent idle will be difficult.

PL

[ST240]

Interesting, I never thought of the higher "air draw" and the AFM catching it. Interesting. I'll let you know how it goes.

I'm running a Holset HY35 turbo. I think it may be a little small but it should work well for now. There still isn't enough reliable info on them though, so who knows... Maybe it's a great fit.

[Decs]

Well, the real answer is I don't know. But I'd try it all std to start with and you may be surprised how well it runs.

Theoretically the bigger engine would flow more air all the time, so your AFM voltage would be higher everywhere. You'll need more fuel than a 2l engine, but with the larger airflow figure the ECU will be adding more fuel anyway. So I'm back to it probably running OK.

Anyway, just start the bugger and see how it runs. As long as you don't have any air leaks it should be OK. Then just give the K constant a nudge if it's too rich/lean.

I'll be very interested to see how she goes. Should be awesome! What turbo are you running?

PL

thats right on the money. the bigger motor draws more air so the afm makes the changes as needed. you';; run out of resolution with the standard maf faster though. my rb30 started and idled fine with the standard gear on it. i've since tuned it on 9 psi still with the rb20 maf and injectors and it works fantastic. any more boost and i'll be seriously considering bigger afm and injectors. the fuel map, once i was done with it looks quite different to a normal rb20 one but like i said, the stock maps are a good starting point.

[Matt]

This was done back in November. Put in some Tomei poncams and replaced the Extreme clutch for a Z32 one to make it nicer to drive

[TM_S13]

the car looks very nice and clean.
the results also seem pretty good
it's been awhile since the last update hehe

[PL]

I'm still a bit annoyed that I couldn't get the power curve smoother than that but there wasn't a whole lot I could do.

Boost curve is a long way from ideal - still using a simple ball-n-spring valve. Must get the factory boost control solenoid working so we can tailor the curve. Although I suspect the poor little 71mm comp wheel is outta breath up top anyway so it's not like we'll get 20psi out of it at 6000....

I'm still amazed how well that turbo has done. Most guys say go 3076 on those engines but there's a lot to like about the 3071.

PL

[brett_32i]

have you tried the autospeed boost control with the pressure relief and pressure reg?

i use it on mine with pretty good results.

when i had my VL i just had a pressure reg and it worked great.

[PL]

Just got a basic ball-n-spring valve at present.

PL

[Matt]

When I get time (haha) I want to go back to factory boost control and modify that instead. Its about finding how it works and right size pills to use the vacuum lines

[PL]

If you can find the correct boost control maps I'll sort the jets.

PL

[Torque]

Hi!
Full boost at 4600 .. is it laggy?
20PSI is alot though ...

Why does boost come done after 4700?
Is the engine outflowing the turbo?

Would you have a picture of how the turbo is mounted?

Cheers ...

[PL]

That's just the shitty Dyno Dynamics pressure measurement system. It's crap. I've complained long and loud but got nowhere. And now I've lost my DLP converter with the pressure sensor hooked up too....

All cars look laggy on that dyno. But I can tell you it definitely isn't.

PL

[Matt]

I've ordered 4 x DLP modules now so we can use these with nistune