Hmmm. That ain't good. Check the plug. Other than that I'd just keep driving it until it starts to play up. I've never seen an intermittent CAS fault. They've either been dead or alive.
PL
tuning my sr
Moderator: Matt
No time yet. I just got a some boards out last night, finishing off the base image programmer tonight
I can try for tomorrow night to get the next stage of coding done. Testing is going to be the fun part...
Knock box is for when knock signal is detected it marks the cells red. This has only been started but only for R32/Z32/CA18 at this stage
I can try for tomorrow night to get the next stage of coding done. Testing is going to be the fun part...
Knock box is for when knock signal is detected it marks the cells red. This has only been started but only for R32/Z32/CA18 at this stage
I definately like the look of that TXS knocklite unit
What you could do is instead of feeding that bulb into the ECU that we feed it into the DLP A/D converter which is already supported
http://www.dlpdesign.com/usb/io8.shtml
This would then feed into NIStune for the knock detection currently in the software and is a very simple addition to make since all the code is there
Currently that unit uses channel 1 for AFR, channels 2-7 for Aux and channel 8 is spare
Channel 8 can be configured as a 0-5 volt Analogue input or 0/5 volt digital input
We could connect the light from the knocklight and put this straight into the A/D converter
If anyone is interested in this, let me know and I can add the code changes within an hour
What you could do is instead of feeding that bulb into the ECU that we feed it into the DLP A/D converter which is already supported
http://www.dlpdesign.com/usb/io8.shtml
This would then feed into NIStune for the knock detection currently in the software and is a very simple addition to make since all the code is there
Currently that unit uses channel 1 for AFR, channels 2-7 for Aux and channel 8 is spare
Channel 8 can be configured as a 0-5 volt Analogue input or 0/5 volt digital input
We could connect the light from the knocklight and put this straight into the A/D converter
If anyone is interested in this, let me know and I can add the code changes within an hour
Should be fine. I'll let you know the story once I pull the Knocklite apart.
I'm thinking that if you wanted to, you could actually remove the LED from the Knocklite and build it into your dash. You'd need to set up the knock threshold and overall gain using the buttons on the Knocklite first of course.
I guess you could even build the buttons into your dash if you wanted.
PL
I'm thinking that if you wanted to, you could actually remove the LED from the Knocklite and build it into your dash. You'd need to set up the knock threshold and overall gain using the buttons on the Knocklite first of course.
I guess you could even build the buttons into your dash if you wanted.
PL
finally ordered the knocklite and dlp converter. any update on yours Pete?
I have 2 questions.
sometimes when warm i start my car and it dies, have to give a few blips of the throttle. also when i let of the throttle and go to neutral it dips to 500rpm then comes back. could this be the result of my tranny harness and neutral switch not being connected?
When i adjust timing with the knocklite do I make pulls and advance timing from low rpm all the way to redline, once knock is deteced back off 2 deg? does advancing timing only benefit under boost?
Matt, can I download the new rev of nistune with the knock flags?
Josh
I have 2 questions.
sometimes when warm i start my car and it dies, have to give a few blips of the throttle. also when i let of the throttle and go to neutral it dips to 500rpm then comes back. could this be the result of my tranny harness and neutral switch not being connected?
When i adjust timing with the knocklite do I make pulls and advance timing from low rpm all the way to redline, once knock is deteced back off 2 deg? does advancing timing only benefit under boost?
Matt, can I download the new rev of nistune with the knock flags?
Josh
Hey Josh,
Yes, I have the Knocklite. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. Things have been conspiring against me. I tuned 2 SR's in the last week. The first one had the knock sensor missing! And the second one had a non-functional cigarette lighter! I'd just wired up the power for the Knocklite to a cigarette lighter socket! We didn't have time to mess with wiring for it so I just used the well proven "add timing until torque stops rising" technique to find the detonation threshold.
I also employed another technique that works quite well. The guys at the dyno place were having their morning smoko when I was doing my final runs. The smoko room adjoins the dyno cell. This effectively blocks out all the engine noise - allowing them to hear detonation quite clearly. I've had them come running into the dyno cell telling me that they could hear detonation when it was only just on the detonation threshold.
Regarding your idle issues. Firstly you need to have your speed sensor hooked up. And you may need to adjust the K constant a bit to get you idle mixtures just right. They can be quite touchy.
Yeah, back it off at least 2 degrees from the knock threshold. I tend to only do timing adjustments in the high load area (usually the last 3 or 4 colums from 3000 rpm onwards). Increasing timing in the load load areas can pay dividends but you'll find that I've already done this in the map I gave you.
PL
Yes, I have the Knocklite. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. Things have been conspiring against me. I tuned 2 SR's in the last week. The first one had the knock sensor missing! And the second one had a non-functional cigarette lighter! I'd just wired up the power for the Knocklite to a cigarette lighter socket! We didn't have time to mess with wiring for it so I just used the well proven "add timing until torque stops rising" technique to find the detonation threshold.
I also employed another technique that works quite well. The guys at the dyno place were having their morning smoko when I was doing my final runs. The smoko room adjoins the dyno cell. This effectively blocks out all the engine noise - allowing them to hear detonation quite clearly. I've had them come running into the dyno cell telling me that they could hear detonation when it was only just on the detonation threshold.
Regarding your idle issues. Firstly you need to have your speed sensor hooked up. And you may need to adjust the K constant a bit to get you idle mixtures just right. They can be quite touchy.
Yeah, back it off at least 2 degrees from the knock threshold. I tend to only do timing adjustments in the high load area (usually the last 3 or 4 colums from 3000 rpm onwards). Increasing timing in the load load areas can pay dividends but you'll find that I've already done this in the map I gave you.
PL