New install - Not working :(

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:10 am

Recieved my Type1 Board for my ECU yesterday and set about getting it installed today. My ECU is already 'socketed' so there was no worries with that. Followed the install guide and soldered the 4 tails into the ECU mainboard and popped it all together and into the car.

On putting the ignition on I was greeted by a very very long fuel pump prime (60s+) and the odd errant 'click' from an unidentified relay under the bonnet. I did not, at this time, attempt to start the car.

I removed the ECU and again rechecked that everything was in order and it appeared so. For good measure I popped the old eeprom back in and tried it. Fuel pump primed as normal (10s ish) and the car fired up. (During this time I left the USB and Nistune flying leads in the ecu disconnected).

So, i swapped the eeprom out for the Nistune board, plugged the two 4 pin connecters in and put the ignition on.... same loong fuel pump prime and random relay click (very infrequent, not like bad rom's i've had before that send everything crazy under the bonnet). This time I tried turning the car over. Nothing. Engine cranked and fuel was getting through but no ignition.

I tried removing the two 4 pin connectors just to try but no difference.

I tried loading up the nistune software but couldnt seem to get the drivers installed? (are they vista compatible? I knew I shouldnt have bought a new laptop lol). I was intending to have a peek to see if it could communicate but due to drivers I could not.

I sent the rom from my current eeprom to matt for pre-programming so in theory the car should run exactly as it is currently.

Also Matt could you resend the address file as the one you sent wont load,

Code: Select all

Address file invalid instruction line 18
EMULATOR_OFFSET=&HC000

Its probably me being a monkey and messing something up, but I just cant work it out

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:01 pm

I can confirm the absolutely latest version of NIStune 0.9261 has the newest FTDI drivers for Type 1 boards and works with Vista

If you use that version it should also work with that address file that I've supplied

You can also get the address out of the ROM file pack

As for the board install, can you put any photos up of the install?

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:23 am

Ok, I used the latest release version so thats probably the vista issue at least

I'll download the BETA later and also take some pics inside the ECU and pop them up.

Thanks

Mark

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:35 am

Update.

Deinstalled the older release version of nistune, ran the driver cleaner and set about starting again.

Still nothing coming down the USB, laptop doesn't even ask for drivers. Tried the GF's (XP) laptop incase it was mine with the same result.

Rechecked everything and can't see anything visibly wrong, as stated above the socket works ok with the current eeprom no probs at all.

When you turn the ignition on with the nistune board in it just constantly runs the fuel pump with the odd errant relay click from under the bonnet. It would also seem that its holding at least one injector open as fuel is entering without cranking the engine. When trying to start the car after swapping back to the working eeprom its very very difficult to start and shows all the signs of being flooded (requiring the fuel pump fuse out and alot of cranking to get it to fire)

The only thing that slightly concerns me about the board is it is a very very tight fit amongst the surrounding components, it almost 'wedges' in amongst some as in this pic

Some other random pics as requested.

I do hope i've done nothing wrong amongst that lot :s Its running again now i've swapped it back to the old eeprom so i'm utterly baffled

(Random pic of the car for good measure

)

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:25 pm

Thanks for putting those photos up. Some things you can recheck

- Reflow the solder on the four connector pads going to the ECU connector plug so that solder flows all the way through the holes

- Clean the solder flux around the bottom of the EPROM chip with acetone or paint thinner

- Reflow the JMP1 jumper to make sure solder pads arent touching

If after that no good then I will send out a replacement board

You have two issues... ECU ROM not running from board and USB not being recognised as a device.

Note that windows will only ask for drivers when ECU is powered on and USB connected

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:26 pm

Matt wrote:Thanks for putting those photos up. Some things you can recheck

- Reflow the solder on the four connector pads going to the ECU connector plug so that solder flows all the way through the holes

No Problem, I was cautious of applying to much.

Matt wrote:
- Clean the solder flux around the bottom of the EPROM chip with acetone or paint thinner

Will do, although I cant see that being the problem as the current eeprom works just fine

Matt wrote: - Reflow the JMP1 jumper to make sure solder pads arent touching

Could you clarify where this i for me please?

Matt wrote: If after that no good then I will send out a replacement board

OK thanks, hopefully it wont get to that

If it does I'm a bit worried about having to pay import duty again? how does that work as its effectively a 'warrenty return'

Matt wrote: You have two issues... ECU ROM not running from board and USB not being recognised as a device.

Note that windows will only ask for drivers when ECU is powered on and USB connected

Indeed. I'm going to stop trying to get the USB working until the car is running as I'm convinced that there is fuel flowing without the engine cranking and am concerned about bore wash and oil thinning. Its also very tight to connect the USB if the ECU is remounted in the factory position, you have to leave the USB in before fitting the ECU back to the kick panel.

Mark

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:49 am

The cleaning wont fix the problem, but just makes the install look neater

After doing the reflow on the connector wires, with the board installed, use a multimeter to 'buzz' out continuity between each wire from the ECU to where the connector is soldered on the board. In case of a bad crimp on the connector (Type 1 diagnostic manual has more info on this)

Sorry ... wrong jumper J4 (PGM) just check there is no possibility it is bridged and in program mode

If I send another board out I will mark down the customs and as replacement so you dont have to pay duty

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 3:29 am

Ok, will probably be in the week sometime when I can get to check this stuff. I'll report back once I have.

I've just checked J4 on the board with a magnifying glass and it looks just fine, but I'll retouch the solder anyway to be sure.

Mark

modulation · Post by **modulation** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:36 am

Spesh wrote:Ok, will probably be in the week sometime when I can get to check this stuff. I'll report back once I have.

I've just checked J4 on the board with a magnifying glass and it looks just fine, but I'll retouch the solder anyway to be sure.

Mark

Do you have a volt-a-meter?
I found it very useful to verify my soldering connections.
Just pick the first place upstream/downstream from what you've soldered, and test for continuity.

Spesh · Post by **Spesh** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 2:40 am

Matt,

sorry about the tardiness of me getting this fixed, i've been extreemly ill and hospitalised for a wee while, i'm getting back to my feet now so will get onto this asap and check whats noted above.

Thanks

Mark

iceblade · Post by **iceblade** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:36 am

Hi Spesh did you get this fixed if not pm me on sxoc, i might be able to help

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 3:00 pm

Let me know if you want to try an exchange board. I plug them in and test before posting each one so I usually try and check the install firstly