boost control using nistune experiences anyone ?

PL · Post by PL » Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:00 pm

Oh bloody hell. OK.

Standby.

PL

PL · Post by PL » Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:21 pm

Nissan solenoid = 32 ohms
MAC valve = 27 ohms

So it'd probably work. Whack a diode (1N4004 or similar) across it to help protect the driver. Cathode (stripe) towards the 12V end.

PL

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:27 am

your a legend... last but not least I cant find these things anywhere ? what's the part number and supplier ?

chris

Adam Hopkins · Post by **Adam Hopkins** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:46 am

Go to xenocron.com and look for the mac solenoid. They are the same units that AEM boost solenoids are.

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:05 pm

was hoping to get the mac part number.. or a place in oz that sells them..

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:38 pm

fitted a blitz blow off valve.. what a pain in the butt.. got it in there now but the spring is too hard... flutters under light loaded gear changes and it is driving me crazy...

anyone know where i can get a soft spring for it... in aus ??

chris

TM_S13 · Post by **TM_S13** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:49 pm

I think that is good... unless the spring is super strong...
if you fit a weaker spring perhaps you'll have some problems with it leaking...
by the way, isn't the blow of valve adjustable ?

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:43 am

yeah it is adjustable... its wound all the way out... some say the hard springs are the go for the blitz bov's. However they are not the easiest bov to handle and I am sought of regretting getting this one as I should of gone turbosmart..

some people cut the spring a little to get it right.. as for leaking it isnt only the spring that holds it closed it uses the boost pressure as well at the t/b to assist it.. the install of this was a pain in the butt I had to adapt so much for the hoses and sought of pissed that it isnt working as I hoped.. it still blows off but the flutter under light load I can do without as it only attracts unwanted attention..

the go is a softer spring and a slightly modified preload adjuster if you cant get the correct adjustment as blitz only give you 10mm of adjustment..

but yes the stock bov was leaking the odd backfire under decelleration... yet to see how it goes under full boost.. the whole double demerit thing was three cops in our 50 zones nearby my place all unmarked.. I got Just JAP to look into it for me as they are the blitz dealer.. it is going to have to come from japan.. hopefully it isnt the most expensive spring in history..

PL · Post by PL » Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:00 pm

I had the same experience with BOV's. In the end I fitted the standard one again - and did the little mod where you block the bleed passage up so it'll hold more boost.

My issue was that when taking it easy you really want the BOV to open as soon as you go to change gears. If this is only at relatively low RPM (read : you're in the boost transition area) then you want the BOV to be quite sensitive. I found this made a big difference when setting mine up. I had an HKS BOV but I got rid of it for this reason.

When driving hard it really doesn't seem to matter that much - any of them will snap open when you're giving it the berries.

Back to MAC valves - mine's a 35A-ACA-DXXA-1BA

http://www.macvalves.com/products/Three ... /35/35.pdf

Sorry, I can't remember where I got it from - it was years ago.

PL
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chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:04 pm

I would have kept my standard one but it started to leak @ 15psi then once it started it leaked more and more..

also the vacuum at closed throttle was pulling it open like when you coast down a hill and pop pop you get the story..

Hopefully I will get my hands on a weaker spring.. then I will just keep backing the pressure off till it starts to do the pop pop thing on coast then give it a little tweak the other way.. so it really only needs a sniff of vacuum to pull open as long as there is boost pressure on the other side...

sprout · Post by **sprout** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:35 am

I've just been trying to sort my car backfiring on coast down, I think you have solved it! Vacuum opening the BOV. Now is there a better feed to activate the BOV than the original Pipework?

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:02 am

normally straight off the manifold is the go after the t/b anywhere it can get vacuum... however crank up on the spring a little first... but if it is the stock one and you have blocked up the little hole dont expect it to hold 15psi well cause they leak for sure... and they leak on coast as well (proven) but only with age..

Another thing to watch out for is a dodgy boost gauge install or boost controller install as these are normally t" off this line as well and if it leaks well you get a crap pop and bad idle as well..

Also test your PCV in the horizontal position if you blow through it it should only let the air pass in one direction as the nissan ones are plastic and wear out as well.. they sick opn on coast and light acelleration..

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:31 am

sprout wrote:I've just been trying to sort my car backfiring on coast down, I think you have solved it! Vacuum opening the BOV. Now is there a better feed to activate the BOV than the original Pipework?

also check your tps.. hook up the nistune and go to the consult gauges.. warm up your car.. and I mean warm it up.. go for a quick launch then look at the engine temp >70deg.. then loosen TPS and adjust it so the TPS idle setting is just comming on so as soon as you crack the throttle it steps off the tps idle setting..

then go for a drive and give it a few hits and make sure the tps idle comes on idle.. if not adjust it again. Did mine again last night seems like my nistune likes 0.36v although it can vary and be reset by doing the key on off proceedure 20 times as per FSM... not sure if the nistune board behaves the same as standard in regrds to this ?

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Fri May 15, 2009 6:50 pm

has been a while since I have done work on the boost tuning.. I have a new blitz BOV on it now and well after all the stuffing around finally got a blue spring in it instead of the red as I was getting over the turbo flutter big time..

Has anyone tried any of the experiments that I did in this thread.. It is a pity that over 3000 views and yet not many replies..

the main point to consider is keep the car fully loaded at all times when tuning boost it is hard to do..

Also fresh plugs made a hell of a difference.. I am changing to using coppers and doing them every oil change... I had irridiums but dont rate them.. yeah they work and last long but they seem after a while to loose torque..

Interesting that you can change the dwell on the coils.. I am just amazed on how strong these things are especially with the temps that they are subjected to..

Also watch out for warn throttle body shatfts.. very common problem at 100k mark... The nissan ones are only brass bush I am looking into changing one over to bearings in the near future..

Chris

chris2712au · Post by **chris2712au** » Tue May 19, 2009 10:43 pm

got a little something more for you..

Its an excell calculator for compressor / turbo housings you can see where you are on the compressor maps