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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:42 pm
by BlueRB240
I was looking around but couldn't find how to do the math to input it into nistune. I can do it with a Power FC
. What ever the problem is I'm not really worried about it because I just have to make things look pretty and throw it on the dyno and see how high my water temp will get with the fan clutch.
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:45 pm
by PL
Cool. Yeah chuck it on the dyno and go for it.
Most guys with PFC experience have no problems.
PL
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Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:28 pm
by BlueRB240
Getting closer and closer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2cREcerhyk
Timing belt on too tight tho
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Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:32 pm
by BlueRB240
Car seems to want to stall after a hard rev and it comes down the idle starts to fall and it gets really close to stalling or stalls sometimes. Also hell of a time getting it to fire up without pumping the gas.
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 6:32 pm
by PL
Usually if you need to work the pedal to get them to fire up it's to do with the ECU not getting the start signal. I see this a lot with engine conversions. Make sure you're getting the "start" light when cranking.
Idle air control could also be an issue here. You'll need to make sure that both the cold start valve (just a simple thermostatic valve) and the AAC valve are working properly.
PL
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Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:30 pm
by BlueRB240
PL wrote:Usually if you need to work the pedal to get them to fire up it's to do with the ECU not getting the start signal. I see this a lot with engine conversions. Make sure you're getting the "start" light when cranking.
Idle air control could also be an issue here. You'll need to make sure that both the cold start valve (just a simple thermostatic valve) and the AAC valve are working properly.
PL
I'll double check but I'm sure my guy that did the harness hooked up the cold start wire to the ecu in the harness. The idle air I changed the solenoid on to a P11 SR20VE one when I was trouble shooting. I'm going to swap it back since I figured out the idle problem and since I need to redo the tensioner since it's too tight.
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:44 pm
by PL
No, not cold start - just "start". You basically just need a wire from the start pin of your IGN switch to the Start terminal of the ECU. This tells it that the engine is cranking and it sets the timing and fuel to preset values for best starting.
Sounds like your problem is probably more likely to be related to AAC valve though...
PL
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:46 am
by Matt
Do you get the 'start' light on the consult panel during cranking? If not then it wont be using the cranking enrich table it should be using
Also with bigger injectors the cranking enrich table needs to be pulled back by the amount that you increased the injectors by
eg from 440 to 880cc is a 200% increase so then halve the cranking injection time in this table to compensate (otherwise it will crank rich with a puff of smoke before running okay)
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:19 am
by BlueRB240
Matt wrote:Do you get the 'start' light on the consult panel during cranking? If not then it wont be using the cranking enrich table it should be using
Also with bigger injectors the cranking enrich table needs to be pulled back by the amount that you increased the injectors by
eg from 440 to 880cc is a 200% increase so then halve the cranking injection time in this table to compensate (otherwise it will crank rich with a puff of smoke before running okay)
Not anymore. I use to see it till I upgraded to a newer version. That was I think 2 or 3 versions ago before I got the car started.
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:04 pm
by Matt
the start light still works in latest version. check you have Consult Flags 1 checked for the START light to work
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:08 pm
by BlueRB240
I will do, going back up friday to do some more work on the car.
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Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:43 pm
by BlueRB240
Ok I double checked and the start light isn't coming on, Also I couldn't make any adjustments to the fuel map
no matter what I did it was pig rich in the middle and started to go lean at the very end.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9GswiaGa_M
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Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:57 pm
by BlueRB240
Almost forgot, the voltage reading that shows up in the consult gauge screen seems to be off. It reports votage @ 12.8-13.2 and when I check at the battery I'm getting 13.9-14.0 v. Aslo watched the load cells and I'm only getting to like 56 vs going out to 86 @ 16-18psi of boost.
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:36 pm
by TM_S13
stupid question I know... but... have you disabled the O2 sensor ?
I've seen worst AFR's in the middle, but it does goes lean up the revs... hum...
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Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:57 pm
by BlueRB240
TM_S13 wrote:stupid question I know... but... have you disabled the O2 sensor ?
I've seen worst AFR's in the middle, but it does goes lean up the revs... hum...
Yes my wideband died during the pulls we were doing so I had to switch to the dyno's wideband.