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Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:37 pm
by Matt
so O2 feedback flags were off during the dyno run?

also check you have the consult flags1 register selected when you connect. if you dont see start then you will need to find the start wire going to your ecu and fix that also. do the neutral and TPS idle lights work and show up okay?

it should be accessing your fuel map and taking adjustments with the O2 feedback flags off. For sanity checking adjust K constant (Injection mulitplier) and check your mixtures are changing when you adjust this

Also try changing your knock fuel map map (just in case)

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Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:48 pm
by BlueRB240
Matt wrote:so O2 feedback flags were off during the dyno run?

also check you have the consult flags1 register selected when you connect. if you dont see start then you will need to find the start wire going to your ecu and fix that also. do the neutral and TPS idle lights work and show up okay?
Yes Tps idle light does come on. I checked all the flags before it started.
Matt wrote: it should be accessing your fuel map and taking adjustments with the O2 feedback flags off. For sanity checking adjust K constant (Injection mulitplier) and check your mixtures are changing when you adjust this

Also try changing your knock fuel map map (just in case)
I adjusted the K-constant on the dyno while the car was idling and saw the values changed (Tried to match it to the idle cell's a/f ratio). The 02 sensor flag was off, and i did knock copy on the fuel map and nothing changed.

Any idea about the voltage that's been reported in the consult gauges been lower than what is at the battery?

Thanks again guys.

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:52 pm
by Matt
Battery voltage measured at the ECU should be accurate for what the ECU is receiving

For example today I was helping a mate with an RB30 ECU which was not having ignition when starting the car multiple times in a row

I got him to measure the battery voltage and then ECU voltage during cranking after multiple starts when the problem was occurring. The battery voltage was 8 volts and ECU voltage was 7 volts!

So there was a 1 volt drop between battery and ECU

Consult reports (accurately) what voltage the ECU sees

Also when the ECU starts dipping below 10 volts then nothing is guaranteed, the system cannot charge the coil enough to start the engine I think. I found when my alternator died that with factory ECU the car would run from the battery until about 10 volts and then after that it just stopped because not enough power to run the car (because alternator not charging the system and I was trying to get home!)

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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:17 pm
by BlueRB240
ohh ok. I got 12.8-13.0 on the ecu and 13.8-14.0 at the battery.