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I am very interested which results from your tests do you get.

Hey Chris,

This sort of stuff is very difficult to evaluate. Good on ya for having a go though.

Looks like I might be doing some tuning on a local S15 with all std engine hardware soon. So we might have some figures to compare.

Continue the research!

PL

just a quick off topic ...

Are these braided lines ok with radiant heat from the manifold installed like this ?



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I'd be at least putting a heatshield of some sort in there. Remember - you only have to give it a bit for anything more than about 20 seconds and that manifold will be glowing red!

PL

well definitely a gain in power and most noticeable in the mid section and coming off vacuum. Going down the same streets in the same gears I noticed that it was pulling alot better. I am keen on seeing how the non drilled flange works.. although a lot of work went into the fitting of the new intake... fitting a full 3inch intake to a low mount is not a fun job... but hey I managed to do it..

If anyone is interested in the drawings let me know as I can get them for you .My first drilled flange was not the most accurate and could have been better.. One thing that threw a spanner in the works is that the compressor cover is not symmetrical in terms of the flange mounting .... however in saying that if the non drilled one does not work as well I will make another.

In the mean time I have been machining a few more throttle bodies for people.

Pete wont you just use Gray's old tune on that near std s15 ? that tune was just a little too lean for my car.. went like a bullet though just the afrs on boost were a little scary..

I want a dyno... However I might just run actuator only dialled to 15psi so I can get a clear power figure... then crank it back and tune the boost using a bit of bleed...

I think that the injectors are definitely going to max out... whats the best to check it with ? can you get duty cycle with nistune or use datascan ?

latest version has a duty cycle guage. pete has been pestering me for that for ages!

Thanks Matt... and Pete..

At what duty cycle should I be getting worried.. my car is for the street only.. and the occasional drag..

just a change of thought...

I am now going to try -

Putting a boost of '0' in the whole boost main and boost knock..

Adjust my wastegate spring to 15psi...

then I will play around with the vaules in the lower regions again to try and reduce the creep.. I am going to use the drilled out solenoid...

Really I dont want an adjustable boost cause I can do that with the accelerator..

results...
Much easier to set up...
You can control not so much the maximum boost but how quickly it comes on..
What I have done so far is set the actuator spring pressure to 15psi..
Installed the drilled out solenoid..
Installed a map of complete zero's..
Then slowly added values in the lower region of the maps just where boost starts to max out (3700) untill i get it slightly increasing above 15 psi and work my way back to the lower RPMS.. it is hard to find at where you have got too much bleed as in the taller gears it is not so noticeable as in the lower ones..
Moral of the story if it does not increase at that specific RPM when you adjust it then leave it untouched.. cause any extra bleed int he system will give you spike in lower gears as it has to refill the boost pressure in the actuator lines and this caused me extra delay and spike..

In saying all this Turbotech valves are good and very hard to beat in performance as pete found.. however i am thinking of going Z32 and at the same time to do some dyno stuff and look at the results of the boost control there as the last time I went on the dyno I was using turbotech and had the old compressor cover..

well after all the messing around with turbo covers and things.. I was happy with the setup of the boost controller...

so I took the car out on the same street and gave it a run...

Once with ported cover with the holes,

Another without the ported cover..

IMHO the difference was just noticeable on the lower end..

Although My car at the moment is having trouble holding boost...

I am going to leak test it to see what is going on

I got a 17psi spike and just hoping it didnt blow a seal in the turbo..

or my BOV is leaking...

chris2712au wrote: Once with ported cover with the holes,

Another without the ported cover..

IMHO the difference was just noticeable on the lower end..

Which one is the better one? With or without the holes?

MichaS14a wrote:

chris2712au wrote: Once with ported cover with the holes,

Another without the ported cover..

IMHO the difference was just noticeable on the lower end..

Which one is the better one? With or without the holes?

was a marginal thing ATM...

Unfortunately there is more to consider atm... my boost is leaking in the top end..

I ran actuator only and noticed that the boost was fading this should not happen I am sure my t28 held 15psi before...

I am just going through the paces of checking things out... My PCV was flowing in both directions.. The PCV system in the s15 sr is recirculating.. I.E one line to the manifold and one line to the intake shout .. it just would of meant loss of boost pressure..

Sorry micha not to have something a little more concrete ATM but still looking for more leaks as I am sure I have another one somewhere maybe the injector seals ? havent checked BOV yet.. in saying this By feel the one without the holes is in the lead..

Okay, I understand. You have to do a lot of work to eliminate preceding problems before you are able to do further tests. I keep the fingers crossed that you find the reason for your boost problems soon.

alright, had some time to play this afternoon,

I have decided to take a look into what Pete had said and give it a try..

This was to get the solenoid valve and actually go inline with the actuator instead of using a tee to bleed.. As you may of read in my other threads that I am a little concerned with the fact that if the solenoid burns out I have a stuck waste gate... I.E max boost.. So that's why I asked about the TP limit for the fuel cut.. if it is ok like that I will just set a tp limit below where my injectors will max out.. and of course keep an eye on the boost..

Anyway I have installed the drilled out solenoid and I am programming an upside down boost map ATM... I will post it up when I get a little more closer with it... but it looks very promising as long as the spring in the valve is strong enough to hold back the boost signal under partial closing..

This is what I have done now and where i am at ATM..

1. Uploaded ECU tune into the new version..
2. went into boost maps and set knock and boost main to 100%
3. went under the bonnet and connected wastegate to front port of solenoid and boost line to the side port to prevent boost pressure from pushing back the shuttle in the solenoid.
4. Went for some crazy second gear launches and set peak boost to 15 psi using the actuator adjustment only.
5 started trimming up the front and back of the boost maps...
a) adjusting the front half brings the boost on faster
b) adjusting the back half reduces boost tapering off..

1st attempt



not agressive enough

second attempt



hope that interests someone out there ?

oh and one last thing... I got a wireless three button mouse.. awesome.. one button for click and the other 2 for add - subtract - now i can drive and just hold the wireless mouse to tune... beats staring at the laptop and is alot safer too.. I have the pointer disabled... would make for a good usb nistune keypad.. cause having your laptop accessible while your driving is an issue.. what do you do put it on the dashboard ? or reach over to the passenger seat..i think not..