Nistune Forums

Anyone else here on 70f05 ecu?
I am about at my wits end trying to get my daily back on the road here. I had a bikirom (I know) and after giving up getting that to work I decided to bite the bullet and get nistune, which I love. Problem is I can not for the life of me get it to consistently run right.
I tried importing a basemap I know many people use to start with on ka-t.org,
http://www.liquidmathematics.com/tunes/ ... r-8bit.bin

Since mine was an auto I imported all his tables, uploaded, and went for a drive. Everything seemed REALLY close but after awhile went to hell. I tried taking a new 70f05 bin and manually tweaking it myself, then importing just the fuel tables and scales. Ran and drove like a champ for another half hour of street tuning. Then like the last one it seemed to go to hell. I think the ecu is trying to learn and compensate then flip out when it tries. Eventually my car tries to lean out 20:1, lose idle, and die out.

I did some datalogging and tried some tuning last night and realized something: Half of the map traces are in the wrong spot! No wonder the car wont respond appropriately and just goes sour.
Is nistune supposed to work with the 1995 single wire o2 70f05 ecu? AVP told me it should, but now I wonder if like bikirom there are other issues with auto ecu's. My solder joints are great everything appears solid, I think this is a software issue or maybe it needs a different adr for auto?

I might be idling at 1800 rpm for example and changes to the VE map are traced to the 500 rpm cell. Why idle at 1800 rpm? because my final 230 deg cell for idle target was 1800 and even though coolant temp might be 185 degrees it follows only at the final cell and utilizes that number. I have not yet REALLY spent more time finding each and every table that is referenced inappropriately, but it's happening.
After awhile I can't get my car running right and I might have to increase VE to 150 in the idle cells just to break 19:1 afr. Around there it jumps right to 12/13:1 from 19:1 as if I hit some sort of closed loop flag issue (but the o2 plugged in or not wont change it). I can also jump my latency time from 760us (proper for sr 370cc's) to 1.2ms or so to keep it idling but that feels sloppy.

Here is a screenshot of my map and log of my idling last night. Maf reading feels clean overall not choppy


thoughts? ideas? what gives! bug? just me?

Try running the latest 0.9.12 version it will fix the temperature tracing and TP tracing issue

If you can email me a log file I'll try it here on a KA ECU on the bench over the weekend

Map tracing is now working for me, but car still does not run Here is my map that I am manipulating right now.
is the 70f05 officially tested and supported on the type 4? just wanted to confirm.

I attached both my latest map and datalog of a warm start and idle. I *WAS* trying to get the car running decent but nothing was consistent. Sometimes I would jack the void time to 2ms to keep it running at 18:1, but it might make the a/f 11:1 later, completely inconsistent and not directly relational to the aac valve opening amount or specific load cell. I can try to tune things cell by cell but get nothing. The longer the run time, the worse the car runs... and it is not relational to coolant temp, more run time after an upload.

sorry I wish I had o2 in that log but sadly my wideband only has 5v out. I have a dlp-io8 in the mail to help with this but sadly I can't show how nuts afr's are in the log...

I know the issue is not mechanical because:
I was running fine before putting the injectors ecu and turbo setup on the car with stock ecu.
Plugs are consistent so I don't have a stuck or leaking injector.
bikirom ecu would run the car and idle fine (but had loads of issues just like every other biki)
o2 disabled and unplugged to rule it out

Running out of ideas on my daily driver

I really hate to even say it, but I am an idiot here and found one of my vacuum caps had blown off. I would have reinstalled my old ecu for testing and found bikirom had the same issue I am sure.

The car now runs and drives a million times better. I do still have issues with the idle not working properly and sometimes stalling the car, but I don't believe it is keeping me from HAVING the car right now. IAC engagement does not seem smooth or on target, and the car still does not actually idle at the target rpm.
We are getting a foot of snow today from a freak storm, but that should be gone in a few days and I will drive my car around trying to get it to run better.