S14 KA-T Tune Questions :: Knock Map

[mdlesk]

I have a 95 S14 w./ KA24DE. I am finally starting to do the tuning. I am trying to do in steps, so at this point the turbo is on (ISIS version of 2871). Injectors, FPR, MAF, and fuel pump are still stock. With the turbo install, the EGR was removed. The AFR's are going beyond 18+ at idle. If I hit the throttle, I can get it back to around 14.7. I started the car and by the time I opened the injector multiplier window, it had switched to the knock map so changing the value didn't have any impact. What is the suggested way to handle the tuning on this?

I went through all of the guides and posts in this Forum for Type 4 boards, but couldn't find anything.

I appreciate any advice that you can offer.

Thanks

EDIT: Added log file. It may not be actually going to the Knock map, I am getting the DTC Code 34. It was fine and then just randomly showed up and now won't go away.

[UNISA JECS]

I have a 95 S14 w./ KA24DE. I am finally starting to do the tuning. I am trying to do in steps, so at this point the turbo is on (ISIS version of 2871). Injectors, FPR, MAF, and fuel pump are still stock. With the turbo install, the EGR was removed. The AFR's are going beyond 18+ at idle. If I hit the throttle, I can get it back to around 14.7. I started the car and by the time I opened the injector multiplier window, it had switched to the knock map so changing the value didn't have any impact. What is the suggested way to handle the tuning on this?

I went through all of the guides and posts in this Forum for Type 4 boards, but couldn't find anything.

I appreciate any advice that you can offer.

Thanks

EDIT: Added log file. It may not be actually going to the Knock map, I am getting the DTC Code 34. It was fine and then just randomly showed up and now won't go away.

Select a lot more registers your log look very empty.

On a side note I copied this from another forum I posted this on a long ass time ago, if your getting a code 34 then read below.

P.S. Code 34 also does not illuminate the MIL light but since you got Nistune its quite easy to see that you have it. Also your knock sensor signal wire may be at a different location than 27 but all else applies.

Before doing any of teh below check the component itself by checking the resistance of teh knock sesnor, a good knock sensor reads 560 Mega Ohms thats 560,000,000 ohms

Now you can proceed!

Well I fixed my knock sensor error code problem.

After spending many hours actually days on this sh*t I finally fixed the problem and the ECU now gives me a code 55 ......

Heres are the diagnosis steps I performed:

1. Disconnect ECM harness connector from ECM.
2. Disconnect KS subharness connector from KS.
3. Check harness continuity between terminal (B) and ECM terminal (27).

Im my case continuity did exist (so good to go right? NOPE) im still getting a code 34 and my knock sesnor is good to go.

Next I pluged everything back together like it should be then:

Step:
1) With a DMM, one probe to ground other back probing pin 27 (Knock Sensor) with KOER and KOEO.

Results = 0.013v (no good) FSM states you should see aprox. 2.5v at idle and or KOEO.

2) I disconnect ECM harness connector from ECM and de-pin, pin 27 from harness connector alltogether.
3) I re-attach the ECM harness connector to the ECM with pin 27 detached from connector.
4) With my DMM I ground one probe and the other to pin 27 and I get 5v, so the ECU is good to go.

So next step:
1) Taking a jumper wire to pin 27 and reconnecting the original (white) KS wire to the jumper wire I instantly lose the 5v (so im thinking why what is causing this to happen (a short to ground etc etc)
2) I take the same jumper wire and disconnect the original (white) KS wire from it and get about 3ft of regular 16 gauge wire and run it directly to the knock sensor subharness terminal (B).
3) I take measurements back at the ECM with my DMM one probe to ground other to pin 27 and I get 2.5v (good to go finally
4) So now I clear the codes and start the car run it for a few seconds and shut it off.
5) Check codes for any errors and all is good (code 55 finally)

If some of you are wondering why I didn't get 5volts when I rewired, its becasue the KS itself is a 0.560M-Ohm resistor and it reduces the voltage down to approx. ~2.5v.

My code 34 was instantanious means I could clear the codes and get code 55, start the car for 1 second then turn it off and check teh codes and I have a code 34, thats becasue it basically had no voltage present of pin 27.