Nistune Forums

I want to eliminate the knock sensor circuit and run the new AEM fail-safe wideband kit for AFR protection. R32 GTR RB26DETT

Here is my question. what resistor are you guys using to trick the knock 1 & 2 circuits? and where do you wire it?
I was thinking of just wiring the resistor inline with my ecu harness adapter kit (the harness that connects the ECU to the engine harness so you don't have to splice into the actual engine harness).

So can I just cut knock 1 & 2 wires on the adapter harness and solder in the resistors? or will I have to wire in the resistors on the actual sub harness in the engine bay?

NOTE. Nistune does not list any knock sensor codes, but Nissan DataScanI shows the knock sensor circuit code? anyone else see this before? I'm not really sure why nistune doesn't see this code, but DataScan does. I know I'm having knock sensor issues because it hesitates to 3.5k RPM then breaks up before smoothing out. It is definitely not as powerful.

470Kohm or 560Kohm work fine. 470k is probably the more common size you'll find in electronics shops.

You can wire them in wherever you like - on SR20's I just fit them in the connector that goes to the knock sensor in the engine bay - handy when you're on the dyno and don't wanna start delving around in the wiring inside the car.

Or you can snip the wires just outside the ECU and fit them there.

My preferred solution is to fit them inside the ECU - trace the tracks back from the main connector to a handy place inside the ECU and solder the resistor in place. Just gotta make sure you isolate the wiring to the real knock sensor - snipping the pin(s) on the blue connector inside the ECU works well. The advantage of this is that it can all be done on the bench with good light etc. Easier than working in an engine bay or under the dash.

PL

470K works and is a common resistor value.

As PL said best is to do it inside the ECU and cut (2) pins at the (blue)connector inside the ECU.
Then from that pin(s) solder one resistor each between pin and ground.

I made the whole thing switchable, so I can go back anytime without soldering.