Nistune Forums

I've read everything Google has told me and what I could find around here. From the moment I start the car it's running off the knock tables.

- I've read could have something to do with neutral switch,which is not lit in the gauge selection,but why would it be it's a manual since it was built from factory.
36F11 ECU - don't know if it's a auto or manual ecu, maybe the issue starts here?

- I have also read some are just copying the fuels and timing maps to the knock tables and calling it good, I might have to do this unfortunately.

- This might end up being another case of I need help making this car run and post logs and tune, I'm using the tune Matt posted for someone else a while back it runs and revs great ( haven't drove it yet) cold start has issues staying running, is that after start enrichment or crank enrichment? And it wants to idle way rich, which lead me to finding the maps on knock, because changing the cell on normal table did nothing haha

There are various conditions which make the ECU switch from normal maps to knock maps. For the CA18DET ECU it appears there are extra things which make the Nissan ECU do this. One thing we have found was the mismatch of ROM images may cause issues. 36F11 is an auto ECU so should be using an auto base file (36F11 or 36F1F FP). If you use a manual ECU it might cause issues. FP code also removed the knock maps so you only have the one set of maps

I've seen also even normal setup, first crank it is on primary maps fine, but then subsequent crank goes to knock maps. It may be missing input switches like neutral or start can also switch it across

Other things like mapping should not cause it to move maps to knock

My base image is 36f05

I don't believe this is a feature pack setup since nistune was imaged and installed like ten years ago. I live in Racine,WI United States, so finding anyone near me that deal in nistune would probably be near impossible. What do you suggest I do here?

Sounds to me I should have the base imaged changed to the correct situation, but if it set to a auto ecu, will it be looking for the neutral safety switch then and canit be disabled in nistune?

Would you know anyone in the states that can do this for me? Id hate to buy a programmer for one use, unless you can direct some traffic to me programming people's boards haha!

Contact Andy @ AutoVauhnPerformance (see workshop list on our website). You can post to him, and get a reflash

Get reflashed with 36F0F (compatible with 36F05). Even MT vehicles have a neutral switch which should work if wired correctly

Getting confused you say "Get reflashed with 36F0F (compatible with 36F05)." Do you mean get reflashed with 36f0f which is compatible with 36F11?

Can my old chip be flashed to work with the feature pack stuff?

All these years only thought manual cars had the clutch safety switch haha

Pretty sure I answered my question the 36f0f is the feature pack. Found it on another post (the one that was running with maf unplugged)
I will email Andy in the morning and get that taken care of thanks

I've emailed and called Andy im not giving up hope on him, it's been a day, but if all else fails who is your next Recommendation?

He does this on the side and is busy

I sent it to Houston Zauto

All good with the feature pack now, I can (should say could) get the car running driving, now it just wants to die at stop signs or just if you rev it, it goes low idle and eventually dies.

I have taken off work now and read and read, then try it, I've tried these peoples bin files on here, I've tried creating my own I can get to the point where I can drive the dang thing and even make full pulls with ok AFR @ full boost (little rich but better than lean), If i can get the idle fix i think id be ready for the dyno, the car is just not safe to drive @ this point.

Does anyone have or can set up a better base for me? CA18det, Z32MAF, 510cc injectors, currently on 10 lbs

*** Matt if you looking to make a few $$ and want to remote into my system tonight Holler! **** (would be morning for you)

Time to read the documentation so you know what you are doing. I don't do remote tuning (no time, and its the weekend over here)

Also Read MAF tuning guide with regards to stalling issues
https://www.nistune.com/support/technical-bulletins

I've been through tbem, but yea willing to bet it has something to do with my BOV going to atmospherr, is there any way to override this by changing something? Or just change BOV

Change BOV to recirc to turbo. Check logs for MAF voltage, TP, inj time and AFRs to see if that is causing it

TY for replying, took the car to a car show this past weekend, just 3 footed it to keep running at idle, but that no longer my main concern right now (could be BOV recirc. issue).
If I floor the gas in neutral or try to take off from a stop it won't go anywhere (full lean) until higher RPM it clears and is fine, can rev the car out and AFR are great, I just went out and unplugged the MAF and tried to floor it, revved way better nice and clean, Verified wring and if I blow in the MAF I watch it increase in consult. Before i try and figure out how to upload logs, does this just sound like a plain out bad MAF to you?

Quick update, it idles worse when unplugged