Nistune Forums

Pulled the car out today and finished up my injector install, then fired it up with the Nistune system installed.

I was nervous about the first start up, but followed the info from the site and it seems to all have worked out. Since I have a real-time board I just synced my PC with the ECU base image, set the new CC for the injectors, and synced it back to the ECU. Fired it up and got a knock code once, but cleared it and it didn't come back again(first start up in 2 months, so I passed it off as no big deal).

Anyway soon realized that "syncing" does not keep the image on the ECU until you "burn" it. That explained the quick stalling problem when I started it up again.

Got things figured, and I'm feeling comfortable with the program now.

I do have a 2 questions though. I do not currently have a boost controller or wideband, still looking for good products I want to use. The wastegates on my turbos are set to 15psi, but I am unsure if the base tune is safe to run at 15psi without wideband tuning it.

The second question is about the narrowband 02's. On the "gauges" window, only one of the "O2" bars was showing any signs of life. the other stayed blank the whole time. Does this hint at a problem with my sensor?

thanks for any info.

Delox wrote: The second question is about the narrowband 02's. On the "gauges" window, only one of the "O2" bars was showing any signs of life. the other stayed blank the whole time. Does this hint at a problem with my sensor?

You have to tell us what type of car do you mean.
For example my S14a has only 1 O2 probe so only 1 is shown in NIStune. If you have e.g. a Skyline R33 with 2 AFMs and 2 O2 probes, you will see both in NIStune.

300zx TT, type 2 board.

Two banks, maybe I have an o2 problem in this case.

I would reccomend that you run a wideband before going on boost in general lean mixtures will surely blow your motor..

Normally it is a good idea to get a dyno run done a wideband alone will cost you more than half of getting someone to tune it.. not to mention the dangers associated with road tuning.. you can try it but I would not recomend it especially for your first time..

Fault finding and the minor tweak is ok but for the nuts and bolts of a tune best to use the rolling road..

as for the 02's swap thenm over and see if the other side comes to life.. you can measure them with the multimeter also... one for the heaters and one for the signal.. the engine ground is the ground for the signal wires..

or measure them at the ECU incase of broken wiring.. sometimes these signals are screened and that the signal shorts out to the screen when the insulation has been cracked or rubbed through..

I plan or picking up a lc-1 along with the boost controller. I am just debating what boost controller to purchase.

as for the boost controller, I have an apex'i AVCR and it's pretty good.
i believe the sorts of GReady Profec B Spec II are also pretty good...
of course... talking electronic boost controllers wise...

I have an AVC-R too and I am pretty happy with it!
Above all the self learn abilities and the rpm dependent boost curve are useful for me.

MichaS14a wrote:I have an AVC-R too and I am pretty happy with it!
Above all the self learn abilities and the rpm dependent boost curve are useful for me.

what is that feature?

I am about to pick up an avcr for $200! with everything included from a reputable source!

anyway is it good along side nistune or no?

Go for it

the first time you use it, it might seem complicated ... but as soon as you understand how it works it's great

There are 2 different versions of the AVC-R!
I have this one:



This is the old one which has not the options I wrote:



If your offer is the first one than go for it!

so can anyone tell me a bit about the base tune? I have yet to pick up a wideband 02 so I have not changed anything from the base tune that came on the board except setting it to handle my new injectors. Is the base tune fairly rich and safe to boost on? I'm running relatively low boost (15psi) as is set by my wastegates (no boost controller yet).

I'll be getting a wideband and EBC soon, but in the meantime I'm going to be driving the car and I know I'm going to want to boost after a long winter!

thanks guys.

it would be better to wait and do it properly IMHO...
you don't want to ruin an engine because of a matter of days or so...

true of course, but I would assume the base tune is fairly rich across the board. I am learning about the wideband products available for our vehicle and am trying to find which one is the best deal for me. I think I'll be going with the lc-1 as it seems to be the least expensive and gives me the feature I need (wideband afr) without others I'm not looking to use.

that too will probably be my choice ... I still don't have a wideband, so I haven't began with some mapping as of yet... soon

I think that it is.. well.. safe to boost your car to 15psi fuel wise, stock fuel map is very rich, like 10.3:1 at full load. But I'm not sure about ignition map. I guess if your TP limit is still there, your intercoolers are clean and can handle the heat from increased pressure, your stock knock sensor is not stuffed and you have knock ignition map intact (or retarded under heavy load), you will be okay. But make sure you are not hitting the last column on an ign map - or retard values there a couple of degrees to be safe. That is a temporary fix until you get your car tuned.

I use AVCR also, it is an excellent piece of equipment. Easily tunable, has good set of features but not overloaded with unnecessary stuff. The only bad thing about most of them is their hideous silver and blue color that does not really suit the interior of ANY car i have ever been in. Thats why I bought black one

Cheers, Petros.