Base tune help (run in)

[WgnZilla]

Hey everyone.
Problem was sorted and run in complete.
But I've got another issue now and can't afford to take it to the tuner to fix. So was hoping someone can give me some hints.

The z32 used managed to get water in it and caused it to not run.
Opened it and dried it all up contact cleaner and tested and its giving me readings I'd expect, chucked it back on and cleared afm fault code but it still idles like crap. Disconnect afm it goes to limp and idles fine.

I assumed the afm was in some way dead so I replaced it and its doing the exact same thing.

Anything I need to do when changing the afm again or should I just be able to swap it for an exact part and drive without issue?

Cheers,
Brendan.

[WgnZilla]

OR would i be better off ignoring this afm all together and just throwing in the HPX afm I have and resetting the AFM to match?
I guess its possible the 2nd z32 afm i had was broken too, although unlikely, knowing my luck its possible..

[WgnZilla]

OH, and not trying to spam but the weird thing is.

This morning, I got it in, cranked it and it idled fine (afm still plugged in..)
Drove it down the street, and back, halfway back started to feel rough, pulled into the garage, came off throttle completely let it try to idle and its seems to want to die again.
Checked fault codes, shows nothing.

[Matt]

Wont be any fault codes. Perhaps log the vehicle and see what is different when going from good to bad

I would stick with the Z32 AFM than move to the HPX for now

[WgnZilla]

That's the plan matt.
Unfortunately when I started it earlier I didn't think it would run so I didnt plug in laptop.

I've left it to sit for most of the day. Will plug in laptop and log before starting again.

[WgnZilla]

Didn't manage to get logging before I started it, but I did log some stuff when it was running rough anything obvious going on here?
Gave it a bit of revs then let it "idle" if you'd call it that.

Not sure if log file is any help at all.

[WgnZilla]

Attached are two logs;
One from cold cold start it idled ok and drove down the driveway okay, then sucked at idling.
2nd is after i turned the car off and disconnected AFM, car idles fine.

Logs are named self explanitory, any help would be great
Unfortunately cannot get in for a retune/look over for 2 weeks so would like to get this sorted atleast to save me some time/cash.

[Matt]

Okay so first AFM had an issue with water getting into it and then these problems started. Then you swapped to another AFM (which is a brand new genuine bosch unit right? or at least confirmed working on another vehicle second hand unit)

Both AFMs exhibit the same intermittent issues when idling and sometimes driving?

No MAF, 51degC

900rpm 3ms
950rpm 3ms
1000rpm 4ms
1562rpm 1.85ms

MAF Limp mode uses a fixed MAF voltage and pulsewidth will drop on acceleration

Z32 MAF
1.325V

900rpm 1.5V 3.5ms
950rpm 1.5V 3.8ms
1000rpm 1.5V 3.64ms
1500rpm 1.5V 5.3ms

Running a bit richer..

Later in logs
800rpm 1.3V 2.65ms
1000rpm 1.6V 3.13ms

Hard to tell from the logs to be honestly without having good/bad MAF signal compared against each other. I still suspect MAF input is problematic if you have not adjusted the tune since when it was running ok

[WgnZilla]

Okay so first AFM had an issue with water getting into it and then these problems started. Then you swapped to another AFM (which is a brand new genuine bosch unit right? or at least confirmed working on another vehicle second hand unit)

Both AFMs exhibit the same intermittent issues when idling and sometimes driving?

No MAF, 51degC

900rpm 3ms
950rpm 3ms
1000rpm 4ms
1562rpm 1.85ms

MAF Limp mode uses a fixed MAF voltage and pulsewidth will drop on acceleration

Z32 MAF
1.325V

900rpm 1.5V 3.5ms
950rpm 1.5V 3.8ms
1000rpm 1.5V 3.64ms
1500rpm 1.5V 5.3ms

Running a bit richer..

Later in logs
800rpm 1.3V 2.65ms
1000rpm 1.6V 3.13ms

Hard to tell from the logs to be honestly without having good/bad MAF signal compared against each other. I still suspect MAF input is problematic if you have not adjusted the tune since when it was running ok

Hey mate,

Thanks for the reply, I didn't test it myself but the person I got it off told me it worked (I don't really have a way to test it unfortunately), so i could possibly be dealing with two damaged AFM's and pulling my hair out for no reason.

This is why I am considering replacing it with the HPX Maf that I have here, as I know it works, (well it should.. it's brand new) and I don't have money to throw at anymore Z32 AFM's currently.

Based on the possibility that my Z32's are both broken, should I be able to just throw in the HPX, change the AFM and run without issue, or will it still need quite a bit of fine tuning to run?

If its as easy as changing to the HPX and changing minimal settings can you steer me in the right direction with what needs to be done?

Worst case, I have booked in for a retune on the 26th of this month, I'm just worried that the water in the AFM may have damaged the ECU and ill be pointlessly throwing money away, which is why I Would like to atleast get it to run OK myself before taking it in.

Cheers,
Brendan.

[Matt]

If you have the HPX there then use the 3" tube configuration. That is tested fine on my vehicle

[WgnZilla]

If you have the HPX there then use the 3" tube configuration. That is tested fine on my vehicle

Yeah I have the HPX and weld in flange ready and my cooler pipe is 3 inch.
Will the HPX Maf run in hot side without issue (will only be for a few months at the most)?

[WgnZilla]

AFM was changed to HPX maf in same location as z32.
AFM was adjusted in software and this log was the result.

Still kinda weird to drive, idles irratically, runs fine then runs shit then fine again.

Didn't adjust anything except for AFM (do i need to check adjust load scalers?)

[Matt]

Injection multiplier may need adjustment. Get it up to warm > 85 degrees. I have issues with cold start with that MAF. I'm going to use the new 'injection adjustment' instead (0.17 version) once fuel pump issues sorted in my R34

[WgnZilla]

okay, warmed car up and disabled o2 input, and adjusted injection multiplier.
seemed to idle quite a bit better, took it for a drive and it ran pretty well too. (log attached)

I need to let it cool down now and see how cold start goes but I think i should be okay to run with this until the retune, What do you think?

Granted i think it may be running a little rich (by the smell) but didn't notice any plumes of smoke or anything like that so hopefully its okay.

Cheers,
Brendan

[Matt]

Try and increase the first bunch of cells in the VQ map to match mine

Have a look at the attached tune to see how I tweaked my VQ map. This is a HPX2 sensor on my R34. Tuned up fine when warm