Getting ecu tested
Moderator: Matt
Getting ecu tested
I need to get this computer tested. I think I bought a bad one.....
I would love to be able to get it tested state side to save on shipping and time.
None of my relay's are clicking and I can not connect via consult.
I would love to be able to get it tested state side to save on shipping and time.
None of my relay's are clicking and I can not connect via consult.
Re: Getting ecu tested
So I see the consult interface.
And I used this to rewire everything.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/this-is-how- ... 14850.html
This is all I see on the interface when its all plugged in.
The key is on.
And I used this to rewire everything.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/this-is-how- ... 14850.html
This is all I see on the interface when its all plugged in.
The key is on.
Re: Getting ecu tested
Do you see 'TX' flash when you connect to consult?
You should... otherwise driver issue. If RX doesnt flash back then ECU or consult port wiring issue
You should... otherwise driver issue. If RX doesnt flash back then ECU or consult port wiring issue
Re: Getting ecu tested
It does flash. I think the ground might be my problem so I am going to try and get it right...
Re: Getting ecu tested
The computer(laptop) is seeing the cable. where do you hook the ground up to? anywhere?...
Re: Getting ecu tested
Ground from where? Consult cable?
See page 8 of diagnostics and communications guide
Either ECU or consult plug issue
See page 8 of diagnostics and communications guide
Either ECU or consult plug issue
Re: Getting ecu tested
Ok so what is pin 32 used for? 32 = CHK and check you have power on +12V and grounding to GND. Can you explain that?
Does the ground have to be ground to the ecu or can it be a chassis ground?
Does the ground have to be ground to the ecu or can it be a chassis ground?
Re: Getting ecu tested
Consult plug ground needs to go to one of the ECU grounds (black wires on the end of the plug typically), and then 12V on consult plug needs to wire into 12V on ECU plug (next wires in)
32 CHK is not used, no need to connect it
32 CHK is not used, no need to connect it
Re: Getting ecu tested
Ok I will hook the ground up to the computer and see whats up.... Thanks for the help so far.
Also if the ecu mem is empty, when you turn the key to "on" would the fuel pump relay come?
Also if the ecu mem is empty, when you turn the key to "on" would the fuel pump relay come?
Re: Getting ecu tested
Ok so ground was not it. I pulled codes and got code 55. I did a search and found that means "all ok".
The diagnostics and communications guide says if the ecu is in limp mode then you wont be able to connect via consult. Is there a way to see if its in limp mode?
The diagnostics and communications guide says if the ecu is in limp mode then you wont be able to connect via consult. Is there a way to see if its in limp mode?
Re: Getting ecu tested
If the ECU is showing '55' codes then that means that the ECU is not limp mode. Limp mode will not show codes (the light will flash or stay lit - depending on ECU)
Its somehow the consult cable wiring. You will need to double check all the wiring from the consult cable to the ECU connector (RX,TX,CLK, 12V and GND)
If you put a meter against 12V and GND you should see battery voltage showing on the meter at least. Other three lines will need to be checked against ECU plug and consult plug (page 8 of the diagnostics doc)
Its somehow the consult cable wiring. You will need to double check all the wiring from the consult cable to the ECU connector (RX,TX,CLK, 12V and GND)
If you put a meter against 12V and GND you should see battery voltage showing on the meter at least. Other three lines will need to be checked against ECU plug and consult plug (page 8 of the diagnostics doc)
Re: Getting ecu tested
So with the key on I should see power at the ground? How many volts?
Re: Getting ecu tested
With the black probe on GND and red probe at 12V you should see around 12V on the meter
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 4:11 am
- Location: west palm beach
- Contact:
Re: Getting ecu tested
Necropost....
I would pull the wiring diagram and unplug all the sensors, the ignitor, idle control, and anything else the ecu actuates and then try to communicate with the ecu.
If you are able to communicate, start plugging things back in and note when it stops communicating.
About 90% of "bad ecu" sent to my testing facility turned out to be either a sensor, actuator, or something else on the car not being right.
I would pull the wiring diagram and unplug all the sensors, the ignitor, idle control, and anything else the ecu actuates and then try to communicate with the ecu.
If you are able to communicate, start plugging things back in and note when it stops communicating.
About 90% of "bad ecu" sent to my testing facility turned out to be either a sensor, actuator, or something else on the car not being right.