vlt z32 maf mod

[culater]

i am confused. thats not my name but it is my present state of mental orientation. i had a board fitted late '12 and have finally fitted the engine from a vlt into my baby (70 lc torana coupe). usual penis extensions are about to be consumed by this project, crane hi6 siemens 83lb low imp injectors highmount gt3582 and z 32 maf. which is where the confusion starts, I had always assumed that the MAF would be plug n play, so i started researching your forum seeking enlightenment. i read about jumper wires and diodes then a dont do that you need to open ECU and chop this solder that and .... ah stuf it where can i take it to get the ecu modded to run a z32 maf and i also assume the wiring needs to be altered. i cant seem to find a what goes where this site is days worth of reading to a newbie like me, and there is no site search capability. any help is greatly appreciated Andy

[Matt]

Basically with the RB30 ECU:

Remove pin 14 from the opamp board in the ECU. You can push it away from the board in 5 seconds with a soldering iron. This is covered at the end of the Type 1 hardware installation manual. This will make the ECU use a 0-5 volt AFM like the Z32 ECU

Now for the AFM plug, that needs rewiring from the RB30 to Z32 wiring. Here is the link:

http://nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdf

However I've done this before in email (searches...)

Pin 1. Sensor ground (black) -> Z32 D (Signal Gnd)

Pin 2. Chassis ground (black) -> Z32 C (Chassis gnd)

Pin 3. AFM output (white shielded - 2-7 volts) -> Z32 B (signal)

Pin 4. Hot wire cleaning (red - not used with Z32 MAF)

Pin 5. 12 volts from ECCS relay (thick white - ignition) - Z32 E (power)

Pin 6. Calibration pot (yellow/red - variable resistor). Disconnect

Okay its not quite plug and play (dont know who told you that) but its not too difficult. The VQ map for the Z32 AFM would suggest modifying the first 8 or so cells to be 600+ to avoid stall issues with the lower end of the MAP after doing the VQ resize

[culater]

thanks for that, its easy to do once the right information is made available. i just pushed the pins out of the plug and repositioned them into the new holes. as for the desoldering i just pushed the pin back away from the little board. does it have to be totally removed? or is this sufficient? i left it incase i need to go back to stock maf.

[Matt]

Just leave it pushed away. As long as its not touching. I should really update those instructions again to indicate this is fine (in case of reversing the mod)